We learned that the first person was dead when we were baking the cake. By the time I blew the candles out, the second person was dying. This was my fourth birthday celebrated in Pakistan, and like all the others it was more painful than fun.
Karl Unterkircher, of the Italian team, was a great climber. He summited both Everest and K2, pioneered a new route on Gasherbrum 2, and now suffered a fatal fall into a hidden crevasse on the Raikhot Face of Nanga Parbat. His partners struggled through the night to get to his body, wedged some 50 feet deep in the crevasse, where either the cold or injuries or some combination slowly stole his last breath.
A phone call from Italy, interrupting the hourly calls from Iran, brought us this news. Karl's partners were unable to reverse their route, the Italian said, and were now forced to descend our face on Nanga Parbat. Could we help?